CHATEAU YQUEM 2009

Served from an ex-chateau bottle. The 2009 Chateau d’Yquem is one showstopper of a wine and perhaps it is only in a vertical that you realize this is up there among the legendary wines of the past – the 2001 included. It has a wonderful nose that expresses the Semillon component majestically: heady aromas of lemon curd, nectarine, jasmine and honeysuckle that all gain momentum in the glass. The oak is supremely well-integrated. The palate is extremely well-balanced with an unctuous entry. You are immediately knocked sideways by the palpable weight and volume in the mouth, which is almost “bulbous,” with layer upon layer of heavily botrytized fruit. It builds to a spicy finish with hints of marzipan and pralines in the background that lend it an untrammeled sense of exoticism. The 2009 is utterly fabulous and decadent, a star that will blaze brightly and undimmed for many years. Drink now-2060+. Tasted March 2014.

Tasting a legend under blind conditions is always the ultimate test of pedigree with everything to lose. And yet for the second year running, the brilliance of Chateau d’Yquem stood out. The 2009 has a glorious bouquet with luscious honey, lemon curd, white peach and quince that is crystalline and utterly refined. It demonstrates wonderful delineation and pinpoint focus. The palate is brilliantly balanced with life-affirming acidity. There are notes of quince and white peach once again, marrying with hints of light honey and crushed stone, finishing with convincing confidence on the composed, refined finish. This is not quite as ethereal as the 2001 – but it comes damn close. Drink 2014-2050.